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Russia

Author: Maria Zehentner
Beitrag vom: 03.01.2018

Through Siberia to the end of the world!

Russia - Siberia, Oktober 2017

 

At the Mongolian exit point, we were not given much attention, about which we were not disappointed. After an hour we were done and could leave. Since there was more to quarrel when entering the Russian side. Blame was our motorcycle that attracted the displeasure of the officials. A vehicle owner with two companions, that went beyond their brains, because Leander was registered in both papers as the owner. It took three hours to complete the explanation and fill in the forms until all the necessary data was correctly recorded in their computer system. After that we were allowed to visa and passport control, hopefully without further delays.

If you want to travel, you need a valid passport. But that alone is usually not enough. Often a visa is needed whose procurement attracts a rat tail of bureaucracy. Immense sums of money must be pushed over the counter, combined with vast amounts of waiting time, patience and nerves that are demanded of you. If you look a little behind the scenes of the chapter of a "Visa", then this document is actually a questionable matter. For the decision, who may or may not enter a state, lies under the full power of the individual states. The reasons for the visa requirement are calculating and are determined by:

the relationship at the state level, which means that the individual states are mutually minded. On the political and economic level, are they neutral or in competition, or even hostile or in a state of war
Economic consideration plays an important role, because it could be possiblethat countries refuse to trade, due to a visa compulsion
However, expensive visa fees mean a high source of income for a country

For a family like us, who wants to travel from country to country as easily as possible, all these interconnections mean a brutal loss of time due to waiting times and inquiries. The high visa fees hit a hole in our budget. We would also have spared us the nerves that were used by unrepentant officials, telephone calls or interventions. And last but not least, the unfounded refusal of a visa forced us to drive a 2000km detour, which of course was super funny with a small child. As far as a little digression in our personal visa experiences. I think it is understandable that we sometimes denounce the usefulness of a visa, whose origin lies at the root of calculating arguments.
But in this case, everything went well and we were allowed to enter Russia a second time.

The whole paperwork had not only made it late, it was also tiresome. We parked Akela near the border, had dinner and fell into the beds. When we opened our eyes the next morning we were not surprised. About ten inches of snow had fallen from the sky. For Lennox, of course, the white splendor meant brightest joy. He grabbed his Lego vehicles, got dressed and jumped out. We were rather skeptical about the prevailing weather conditions. We are and will stay just temperature spoiled summer kids. It could be calculated that the upcoming 4,000 km to Vladivostok would not be a honey lick if snow and ice would stop. Siberian winters are feared, not only by us. Our moody diesel heater, which often only after countless reboots decided to work, also made no contribution to be able to lay your legs relaxed on the table. The subframe also still haunted our thoughts. If he does not hold, then the barren tundra would be rather an unpleasant area to look around for help if necessary. But we were not so discouraged by the cold temperatures and the fresh snow. We decided to make a detour to Lake Baikal.

Lake Baikal, which means "rich lake", is a lake of superlatives. It is not only the largest, deepest and oldest freshwater lake in the world, it also has the best drinking water quality. Nestled in the midst of mountain ranges, it offers rugged rocky coasts as well as sandy beaches. The flora and fauna that lurk around is of gigantic variety. Around 2,500 animal species and 1,000 plant species can be found in and around the Baikal. About half of the animal species and one third of the plant species are endemic, that means, they only occur here and nowhere else. It is hard to believe, but in winter the lake is covered by a thick layer of ice. Due to massive snow masses many small villages around the shore are cut off from the outside world. This is why ice rinks are laid across the lake every year, called "Zimniks", to supply the people living there. Temperatures of -50 ° C are not uncommon in the cold season.

From the border we drove to the city of Ulan Ude, and further on to the eastern shore of the lake, we needed a full driving day. It was icy cold and the sun was already saying goodbye, which did not prevent us from putting on warm clothes and taking a walk. The infinite width of the water was impressive and mysterious at the same time.

The goal was the 120km distant Transbaikal National Park, which was lined by a sheer endless sandy beach. In a wonderfully quiet spot right on the water we turned off Akela. The sun was shining from the sky, gentle waves splashing on the shore and shells as far as the eye could see. Lennox and I loved the broken shells of the sea, and wherever we saw them, we felt the urge to collect the most beautiful specimens. Armed with a bucket we got down to work. Leander tethered our hammock in the meantime and devoted himself to a book, which was a rarity, because relaxation and Leander, these are two nouns that do not really go d'accord. Well, the little one and I came back without any, but with all sorts of other lumber, which was ideal for a campfire. We stacked everything up neatly, got our last marshmallows out of the truck and stood besides the campfire. The blazing flames gave our frozen bones a soothing warmth. We held each other's arms, gazing out over the open sea, watching our son making fun, just enjoying the tranquility of the reserve, for two days.

On the way back we filled up our supplies in Ulan Ude and strolled over the weekly market, which did not catch us particularly spectacularly, which could have been due to the fact that we visited innumerable markets in the last months. Maybe we were already oversaturated! We stowed the shopping and got behind the wheel to make a few more kilometers. As already mentioned, we gonna travel 4,000 km through the Siberian wilderness to reach Vladivostok, the eastern end of the navigable world, from where we want to ship Akela to South Korea.

What comes to mind about Siberia? Brutal cold, enormous masses of snow, tundra and taiga, lonely and abandoned! Except for the snow, which had said goodbye, thank goodness, everything was correct. The sun did not show until late in the morning and soon disappeared behind the horizon again. Thus, the days were short and the nights long and cold. Completely frosted windows awaited us every morning. The serious temperature difference between inside and outside meant, that we had to deal with enormous humidity in the truck. A hated ritual repeated itself from now on daily. To prevent mold under the mattresses, because even there crawled the wet, it was necessary after getting up, to remove the entire bedding including mattresses. This was followed by a blast to get everything dry again, which of course caused it to cool down rapidly in the truck. In winter jackets, we brushed our teeth and washed our faces. With cold water too, because overnight the water in the boiler cooled down. An action that took us well over 40 minutes, according to the motto, every day the marmot greets!

When choosing the road to the city of Chita, which we had to pass through, we grabbed fully the badest one. Almost 500km of corrugated tracks at its best awaited us. A reasonable occupation with Lennox in the living room was not possible. Playing cards, painting or books, everything was shaken away from us under the hand. Stiff limbs, tense neck, drawers that opened and closed in spite of the lock, it was a catastrophe. Damaged, demotivated and grumpy, we were happy at sunset to be able to park our truck. Where, we did not care! The best thing on the place was, that the shaking stoped. It was a pain in the a... But you also had to pick out the positive, our subframe did still work. It seemed like Sergei had worked well.

After three barely enduring days of driving we reached the city, where we were stopped by the police. Normally, Leander liked to go through controls, for the simple reason that officials, when they see Akela passing, neglected to wave us to the side of the road in time, and with a 10 tonne, emergency braking is not recommended. Leander did not care about that, and most of the time the police aswell. Basically they were just curious. They demanded the vehicle papers, which they could not read anyway, and looked into the passports. This officer was quite perplexed and inquired why we had taken the bad road to Chita, where there was a second well paved road. With a forced smile we climbed back in and bit our minds in the ass. Why? Good question! The selected route was a few miles shorter according to GPS, we wanted to save time and diesel. The shot went clearly backwards.

For the night we parked the truck outside the city in a wooded area. Wherever it is possible, we try to go into nature for toilet. Here in no man's land, surrounded by trees and fog in the night, we were always afraid of leaving the comfort zone and going out for a pee. But at some point you don`t have another choice. You have to get out, whether you wanted it or not. However, we had no fear of robbers or scoundrels who might be waiting for us. We were more afraid of wild animals like bears, wolves or Siberian tigers, all native to the region, and not hiding in the hinterland. The guidebook read about it, locals reported encounters and the internet was full of videos and reports. Lennox was only allowed to get out in company. We adults left the front door open to flee into the truck in case of danger, as quickly as possible, which created a very relaxed feeling of "urinating". By the way, a super thoughtful precaution from our side to leave the door open. Because a tiger or a wolf would certainly be so fair and give us the option to jump in the truck when he was hungry. All in all, none of us ended up as a staple in the stomach of a predator.

Once again, the alarm clock rang at 05:30. The night had to be terribly cold, because not only our windows were iced, but also the door lock on the inside. For a face wash with ice-cold water I was not in the mood, which had to wait until we had hot water from the engine heat. I slipped my jacket over and sat with Leander in the frosty cab. Lennox was still sleeping.

Akela also had difficulties with the freezing temperatures. Starting the engine always turned into a fear and hope. "Please, please jump on and do not let us hang now!". It often took minutes for the machine to run, combined with jet-black fumes billowing from the exhaust. Shivering, cause of the cold, we drove off. We had not been on the road for a quarter of an hour, when Leander suddenly clasped his hands and shouted, "God, the engine is running hot!" It was a paradox, the outside temperature was -10 ° C and our engine was boiling. We rolled to the side of the road, to cool down the engine. There was enough cooling water in the tank, Leander refilled water daily. It could not have been due to the lack of antifreeze, as we have already added in abundant quantities in Ulan Bataar for up to -50 ° C. We were at a loss! The coldness, reinforced by the relentless wind, where not really helpful in finding any solution. We closed the hood, jumped into the living room and sat both in front of the heating slots. Our fingers and toes ached like hell while they slowly thawed, through the warm air. It sucked.

An error analysis did not help. We did not believe in a broken thermostat, because basically it was new. We exchanged it in Iran. Could the display possibly be broken? After our bodies returned to operating temperatures, we tried our luck again. I quickly slipped on a third pair of socks and climbed back into the cab. But the drama repeated itself. In very short time, the temperature gauge needle shot at 100 degrees. Damn sh .....! Why why why??? These are the moments when the brain gives way to doubt and one secretly asks, "Why are we doing this at all?"

The nerve killing Hop on Hop off spectacle was repeated several times. Meanwhile, the sun had risen and enveloped the scenery in a bearable atmosphere. As the body in cold climes needed more energy to keep warm, we fortified ourselves first with a decent breakfast. Then we went back behind the wheel. And behold, a miracle had happened. Akela drove kilometer after kilometer at a constant temperature of 80 degrees, which means normal operating temperature.

For the next day we decided to start the engine some time earlier, before we planed to leave. Akela didn`t like the cold either. Maybe we should not drive with a cold machine. But unfortunately we thought wrong! Again and again the engine overheated. We drove five minutes, and afterwards had to stop for 10 minutes, to cool the system down. If we kept on going like this, we would need forever, to reach the next gas station, which was only a few kilometers away. We tried to stop a passing truck and wanted to ask the driver to tow us to the gas station. One stopped, the man told us that he would have to make a short delivery and then come back. But we waited in vain for him. On closer reflection also somehow logical. We were in the middle of nowhere, there was no city around, no village, not even a house to see. Where should he have gone to make a delivery quickly?

The following truck`s we stopped could not help us. Apparently, modern semi-trailers have no towing device. At some point it became too anoying, and we climbed back into the cab. Leander started the engine and drove constantly at low speed to avoid overheating again. The gas station moved closer and closer, but the temperature rose and rose. Our last idea was, that perhaps the sensor on the display just did not work anymore? Yes, could be, why not! This time, Leander ignored all the warning signals. The pointer rose to 90 degrees, to 95 degrees, getting higher and higher. But he did not take his foot off the gas pedal.
He went through it all the way, hoping that the on-dash display might just be broken? He gripped the steering wheel tightly and kept on driving. He even ignored the suddenly signal howling. It interested him like nuts. He did not let up. With sweat beads on his forehead, he chased the gas station. This worked exactly, until the smell of fire was in the cab. Shortly thereafter, white smoke rose in front of the windshield. Leander slowed abruptly down, jumped out and opened the hood. A dense burst of smoke hit us.
For a moment we were wrapped in thick fog. Luckily we could not discover fire. With our hands we shoveled snow from the roadside and threw it on the engine block. It hissed, smoked, croaked and steamed, like an old steam locomotive! Oh, man, what the devil had ridden him? Nervously, he paced up and down and cursed under his breath. Well, the estimated sensor is definitely not the reason, it worked, as we could just see. If the quintessence of this action was an engine failure, that would be a disaster. Small consolation, at least we were just before the gas station.

Little by little the smoke dissolved. We could not detect visible damage. The needle of the temperature gauge, however, did not move down a millimeter. After some time, the display was back at 80 degrees. The hour of truth! With a queasy feeling Leander turned the ignition key and pressed the start button. We were really lucky, the old boy started without grumbling and moaning. The engine seemed to run smooth.

Carefully, we rolled the last few meters to the gas station. In the shop we bought lots of antifreeze, and filled up the watertank properly too. Our last assumption of the previous stop and go rides was, that we had already diluted the Antifreeze, which we had filled in Ulan Baatar, with water so much, that it was too less for these temperatures. Partly frozen cooling water and perhaps frosted fins of the radiator would be a logical explanation for the morning overheating. And, when it was getting warmer during the day, the truck ran smoothly again. This should have been the actual cause, because from that point on we had no more problems.

Another two driving days followed, through never ending forests on both sides of the street. Occasionally the rails of the Trans-Siberian Railway flashed through, which also meandered through the tundra towards Vladivostok.

For ten days we sat from morning to night in the truck with the only goal to make kilometers. We only stoped for short peeing breaks, even lunch, usually only a small snack, we prepared while driving.

Since our schedule meant well with us, we stopped in the next town Khabarovsk. Our Belgian friends, who made the vanguard on the same route, provided us with all sorts of information. The people of Khabarovsk sounded very interesting. We turned into the city center and found, after a long search a relatively suitable parking space on the Amur river. At least we thought at the time.

At an hour later, when Lennox was already asleep, Leander and I went out of the door. We had not been outside for a minute when two men headed straight towards us. They inquired about our origins and were interested in the truck. Common questions that we were asked many times. It was not to be overseen, that at least one of the two had tasted intensely on the vodka glass. Since we were "good people" and "friends", one staggered back to their car and came back with a bottle of whiskey, which he gave handed us for present. We thanked and wanted to get back in the truck. But the two Russians had other plans. In broken English they told us, that it was cold and we should open the bottle to warm up, but Leander and I haven`t been in the mood for drinking alcohol. Polite but determined, we refused and got in. They did not go away, they walked around the truck and did not let Akela out of their sight. We were not afraid, but the feeling of being watched caused a queasy feeling. At some point, they went back to their car and got in. We hoped that they would finally leave, but thought wrong. They parked their car a meter in front of Akela, turned on the headlights, and loud music. To show them, that we were not bothered by them, we turned off the lights in the cabin to make them understand we were going to sleep. In truth, we secretly watched them from the window. Just like us, they just did it obvious and provocative. At some point it became stupid. This cat and mouse game dragged on until 06:00 in the morning. I gave up at 02:00 am, and fell asleep. Leander held on to the bitter end. In general, I am convinced that they did not want us to harm. I think, we had offended them in their honor, because we did not want to drink with them.

Leander was out of order, when Lennox woke up and wanted to have breakfast. I also had dark circles around my eyes, but the kid did not care about that, he was hungry. To give Leander a few more hours of sleep, I visited a museum with Lennox, which would have been nice, if i wouldn`t have been so tired.

But not only weird birds were running around in Khabarovsk, even true angels were among them. The acquaintance of such, we owed a pure coincidence. His name was Theodor. On the way to work he stopped every day at the coffee kiosk, which was right around our corner. Akela caught his attention, so he wrote us a message on Facebook, in which he offered us his help. After last night we hesitated a bit, but then wrote back to him that we would like to meet him at the truck. After one hour of waiting, he came with a huge Toyota Tundra, and stopped infront of Akela. A nice man in his late thirties got out of the car, came up to us and introduced himself. It was Theodore. His English was very broken, but with Google Translate and Alexander, we got a conversation.

Alexander, our friend from Barnaul, I do not know how many times he helped us translating Russian to German. It can not be mentioned often enough, thank you for your help, and thank you for taking off your mobile at any time of the day or night when we are hanging helplessly at the other end.

Back to Theodore, he was a phenomenon. He owned a workshop and other companies and was also an ambitious traveler. Of course, he noticed the fresh oil stains on the pavement left by Akela.

The oil spots were not the problem, but a small leak in the radiator. Which is why we constantly had to fill up with cooling water. We told him a little about the troubles we had with our oldie so far, whereupon he asked us to follow him into his garage. Well, what could we lose? We trusted him and followed him through the city to his garage. His mechanics took a close look at Akela. Since we could not do anything but wait, we followed Theodor's invitation and drove in his car, back home to his family. Lennox was already very excited, he had heard that Theodore had two sons, who were only a little older than him. We packed the necessities, climbed into the tundra, and after 40 minutes, we arrived at a large house surrounded by a high fence. Wow, where did we land? The entrance gate opened automatically and we drove into the garage. In his garage, Theodor hoarded there several snowmobiles, another Range Rover Defender, motorcycles and a classic - an old Nissan skyline. I did not find it so exciting, but that's probably because of my feminine genes. We went into the house and got to know the rest of the family. Olesya, Theodor`s wife, gave us a warme welcome. Their two sons David and Bogdan grabbed Lennox and disappeared into their rooms with him. There was no trace of fear. Kamilla, their 15 year old daughter, we would meet later.

The Gvazava family really made it easy for us to feel safe and secure. They offered us accomodation, food, laundry, shower... . But not enough, while walking through a shopping mall, Olesya insisted on giving Lennox one or two little things. The Gvazava family spoiled all of us, they were amazing.

Of course, the men indulged in more important things. Akela! But apparently he was not as desolate as we suspected. He was given an oil change, the leak on the heater radiator was soldered, his brakes were set and cables for a new compressor connection were relocated. We were not allowed to pay for the working time, the material or the compressor, that Theodor put on top. And last but not least, as funny as it sounds, we had to drive to Russia to get our diesel heating repaired. Neither the manufacturer in Austria, nor various service partners on the way, were able to fix the permanently displayed error code. Thanks to the Russians, we could confidently face the cold again. At least that's what it seemed.

Our stay with family Gvazava felt into school holidays, so Lennox was not bored too.

The hospitality of the family was so unbelievable, that we postponed the departure day by day ;-). "Mi casa es su casa", or in Russian "moi dom, dvoi dom" is a saying, which Theodor and his family took very seriously. They pampered us, and showed us a hospitality, that we had never experienced before. We have become friends, and we do not want to miss anymore, thank you very much! We hope that we could help you at least with our experiences, when you start hitting the road. Because the family is also planning a world tour in future, for which we wish you all the best, and who knows, where our paths will intersect again.

Back on the road again! Vladivostok moved closer and closer. In the early afternoon of the second day of driving we reached the city, finally! It received us wrapped in a dense mist soup. Vladivostok is located seven time zones away from the Russian capital Moscow just to get a sense of the size of the country. It is the terminus of the Trans Sibirian Railway, and at the same time the largest and most important eastern port on the Chinese Sea. Cruise ships, oil tankers, cargo and military ships lined the entire coast of the city. Cranes lined up, cargo containers wherever you looked. Unbelievable, I had never seen a bigger harbor.

Due to its location on a hillside on the Pacific coast, because of its bays and harbors, the historic buildings and last but not least because of the fog, the Soviet secretary general Nikita Khrushchev has allegedly referred to this city as the "San Francisco of Russia." It was difficult to find a suitable place to stay in. Despite the many parking spaces, most were unsuitable for sleeping as they were steep.

Yuri, an agent who helped us with customs formalities in the upcoming shipment to South Korea, was able to help. He steered us to a huge parking lot which was cheap. Relatively central to the old town, almost right next to the harbor terminal, and his office was just around the corner. Perfect location. In order to make reasonable use of the late afternoon, we paid Yuri a visit to his office. We had not registered, but were lucky and met him. We discussed the customs procedure and his colleague Svetlana made copies of the necessary documents. Check, the first part for the ferry crossing was done.

A visit to DBS Ferry, the only shipping company from Vladivostok to Donghae (South Korea) or Japan, was scheduled for the next day. For weeks, we were in contact with Olga, an employee of DBS Ferries, and negotiated prices, deadlines, insurance and other stuff. So far, we had only made a seat reservation on the ship for the 15th of November, the rest we wanted to clarify with her personally. Our original plan was, that we wanted to translate with DBS to South Korea to stay there for a month. Afterwards it was thought that we wanted to continue to Japan with the same company. But Olga made it with her confused calculations, that we completely re-thought our project and subsequently redesigned it. Just the break in South Korea would have cost us € 1,000 extra. The fact that we had to pay for our motorcycle separately freight, although it represented a unit with the truck, made it expensive too. Although, that could have been my fault. During the flood of e-mails, that I had sent back and forth with Olga, I was not sure if I had even mentioned the two-wheeler. So, in this case, we had to book insurance for the truck AND the motorcycle on arrival at the harbor of Donghae. But we did not really care about that. We hoped to clarify this post with the local agent, because we did not want to use the cross, so why pay insurance? Finally, we booked only the route Russia - South Korea with her, the cheapest option, which was still sinfully expensive, almost 2,500 €. But there were no alternatives. For the onward journey from South Korea to Japan we wanted to look around the peninsula for more favorable possibilities. There were connections, we just had to research again.

With Lennox in tow, such appointments usually turned out to be a test for the nerves. On the one hand, you had to keep the kid in your eyes, to make sure he is not making nonsense, on the other hand you should keep a clear head to keep the conversation with Olga in a flow. But finally, we had a valid ferry ticket for us and the truck.

If somebody is planning to ship his vehicle from Vladivostok, we really can recommend the shipping agency of Yuri, Links.Lt. Yuri and Svetlanda did an excellent job saving us at least two days, we would have needed to do all the customs clearance by ourselves. In our opinion, the $ 150 fee was well invested. In addition, Yuri managed to stay in the truck until loading. We knew from other travelers that they had to look after a hotel for the night before departure. Thus, we were again free of worries and could devote ourselves to more pleasant topics.

Vladivostok can claim to operate the only rack railway in Russia. The end point of the short drive is a viewing platform which grants a gigantic view over the city. Very special is the monumental bridge, which connected the city center with the surrounding islands. Lennox loves walking or driving through cities at night, because of the lights and colorful neon signs.

Otherwise we did not do much sightseeing in the city. To museums, churches or other "must sees" attractions, mentioned in tourist guides, we normally make a big bow. Out into nature, that attracted us more.

Since we had some days left until our departure on the 15th of November, we planned a trip on Russky Island, an island that was located in front of the city. It was connected to the mainland by a bridge and was supposed to have gorgeous beautiful beaches. Maybe we could find a nice spot there where we could camp until the ferry is leaving. It was also home to the world's largest oceanarium. Although we are not fans of such facilities, but after the laborious journey from Lake Baikal to Vladivostok, which we managed in less than 14 days, and the office marathon until the shipment done, our little one had really earned a surprise.

The aquarium was ok, and we spent a whole day in it, the rest of the island was, ah, how should I say? Not because of the roads, that counted among the worst on which we had ever driven. No, it was the ambience of the island, that exuded a charm, that catapulted us 70 years back into an unpleasant past. Somehow we had the feeling, that Stalin is in our neck, and slogans such as glasnost or perestroika came into our mind. You could breathe the history. Dilapidated barracks and military bases were omnipresent, and on closer inspection one could also spot protection bunkers. Even the few inhabited houses that we passed, seemed dead at first sight. The gloomy weather contributed the last bit to the doomsday atmosphere. Where the excellent beaches were, promised by the guide, no idea. We did not find them.

Without heartache, we turned our backs on the next day and headed for the familiar car park in Vladivostok, getting on to the ferry. "South Korea we come!"

Documenting our trip in words and pictures is a lot of work. And as you have seen, our website is ad-free. We want to leave it that way and want to avoid annoying you with advertising, but due to that we don't earn anything either with our website. If you like our blog posts and would like to support us, we would be very happy to receive a donation so that we can continue to report. Thanks very much!

Comments (5)

  1. Robin Cyrnik
    Robin Cyrnik at 06.07.2018
    Toller Artikel! Eine gute Reise Euch!
    1. Maria Zehentner
      Maria Zehentner at 18.01.2020
      Hallo Robin,
      danke für dein Mail und entschuldige die späte Antwort. Habe die Nachricht erst jetzt gelesen.
      Freut mich, dass dir der Bericht gefallen hat.
      Ich hoffe, dass dir auch die restlichen Berichte gefallen.

      Viele liebe Grüße
      Maria
  2. umut hamza
    umut hamza at 27.12.2018
    You are very lucky.you know the world by traveling.Probably a very costly trip,but your experiences worth it.have a good trip
  3. Suzanne Hein-Hoffmann
    Suzanne Hein-Hoffmann at 09.07.2019
    Ich lese den Blog regelmäßig und Eure Reise ist fantastisch, schade, dass Ihr so viel Probleme mit dem Akela habt und die Zeit, die das kostet. Ich wünsche Euch eine weitere gute Reise!
    1. Maria Zehentner
      Maria Zehentner at 18.01.2020
      Hallo Suzanne,
      danke für deine Nachricht. Entschuldige, dass ich erst jetzt zurückschreibe, aber deine Nachricht dürfte irgendwie durch den Rost gefallen sein.
      Ja, Akela ist wie ein Haus ;-) hat man eine Reparatur abgeschlossen, klopft die nächste schon an. Aber das gehört halt auch dazu obwohl es nicht immer lustig ist.
      Ich hoffe du liest noch immer fleißig unsere Berichte und hast Spaß dabei.
      Viele liebe Grüße
      Maria

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